How is Linen Made?

A step by Step guide on how linen is made.

Common flax (Linum usitatissimum) is one of the world’s oldest cultivated plants. Grown in temperate climates, it’s used both as a fibre and a food crop. The fibres from its stalks are transformed into the fabric we know as linen, used for everything from tablecloths to bedding.

The flax used to make linen isn’t the same as the New Zealand flax you might know, they’re completely different plants that just happen to share a name.

A Brief History of Linen

The use of flax to make linen dates back more than 4,000 years. Ancient Egyptians prized it for its purity, and Bronze Age communities in Europe even built early workshops dedicated to flax processing.

While modern technology has made production faster, the linen production process itself hasn’t changed all that much, it’s still a blend of nature, patience, and craftsmanship.

Figure 1. Photo of Flax Plants, credit kornyeyeva. (iStock, 2020).

1) Growing

Flax seeds are sown in Spring and take around 100 days to mature. The plants are ready for harvest when the lower stems begin to yellow, that’s a sign the fibres inside are strong and well-developed.

Figure 2. Brown Flax Seeds from Wikipedia. (Wikipedia, n.d.).

2) Harvesting

For quality linen, flax is usually pulled from the ground rather than cut. This preserves the full fibre length, which creates smoother, stronger fabric later on.

Figure 2. Photo of Flax Plants being Harvested in Normandy, credit Christine944. (iStock, 2021).

3) Retting

Next, the fibres must be separated from the woody stem through a process called retting, essentially letting nature do its work.

Traditionally, flax is laid out in the fields to soak in dew and rain, which gently loosens the fibres so they can be extracted.

4)  Breaking, Scutching & Hackling

Once retted, the flax straw is dried and processed to release the long, silky fibres inside.

• Breaking cracks the woody outer stalks.

• Scutching removes the broken pieces.

• Hackling (or combing) aligns the fibres and makes them ready for spinning.

The result is a soft, lustrous bundle of flax fibres, the foundation of linen fabric.

5) Spinning & Weaving

The prepared flax fibres are spun into yarn, then woven into linen fabric using looms.

In our case, the flax fibre is grown and processed in Europe, before being spun and woven by skilled textile makers in China, a common practice that combines traditional European expertise with modern weaving precision.

6) Finishing

Finally, the woven linen fabric is washed and softened to achieve its beautiful, relaxed texture. At Aspen & Fern, each piece of French flax linen is prewashed for comfort right out of the box. We simply recommend giving it a gentle wash before first use to refresh the fibres after shipping.

Why Linen Is So Special

Linen is one of the few textiles that actually gets better with age. Each wash softens the fibres without compromising strength. It’s breathable, long-lasting, and naturally elegant, the perfect blend of everyday comfort and timeless design.

You can learn more about what makes flax linen so exceptional in our Linen Bedding Benefits guide, or read about our values and story on the About Aspen & Fern page.

Aspen and Fern Linen Sheets. Aspenandfern.co.nz

To wrap things up

Linen’s story is one of patience and precision, from the quiet fields of European flax to the soft, finished fabric on your bed. Every Aspen & Fern piece reflects that same balance of nature and craftsmanship, and is thoughtfully finished to bring comfort and calm to your home.